Care

The Salvini Cichlid is known from the Rio Papaloapan in south-eastern Mexico, and eastwards into Guatemala and Belize. Here, it inhabits moderate to fast flowing waters in the lower and middle river valleys. The aquarium should be at least 4ft long for a single pair, with a much more spacious tank (6ft+) required for multiple specimens or if keeping with other fish. There should be plenty of hiding places amongst driftwood and rocky caves, and large flower pots laid on their side are also much appreciated. If plants are desired, choose tough species such as Java Fern (Microsorum sp.) or Anubias sp. tied onto the wood, as plants rooted in the substrate will be dug up. Filtration should be efficient with a decent level of oxygenation and areas of fast water movement, along with some quieter resting spots out of the current. Like other species that inhabit fresh running waters, these cichlids will not tolerate a build-up of nitrates within the aquarium and require excellent water conditions at all times if they are to prosper; regular partial water changes are essential. Salvini Cichlids are considered very aggressive, and when breeding they will become even more territorial. They are best maintained as a compatible pair. Tankmates, if desired, should only be added if the tank is spacious enough, in case the Salvini Cichlids decide to breed. Companions should be of similar size and temperament e.g. some of the other robust Central/South American cichlids, and medium sized catfish (Doradids, Loricariids etc). May also be seen on sale as Salvin's Cichlid, Tricolour Cichlid, or Yellow Belly Cichlid.

Feeding

Omnivorous but with a preference for meaty foods. Bloodworm, white mosquito larvae, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp, Mysis shrimp, and chopped krill/prawns should all be enthusiastically consumed, and these can be supplemented with flake and cichlid pellets/granules along with occasional vegetable matter such as lettuce, kale, spinach etc.

Breeding

Substrate spawner. When ready to spawn, the fish will intensify in colour quite dramatically and display to one another. They will then choose a preferred spawning site at one of the caves or a flat piece of rock, digging small pits nearby. Whilst the female is busy cleaning the spawning site, the male patrols the perimeter, ready to defend against any intruders that may, or may not, be present. When ready, the female will swim over the spawning site in a series of "dry runs", after which she will begin depositing between 500-600 eggs. The male immediately follows behind her and fertilises them. The act of spawning has been known to continue for well over an hour in some cases, after which time, the female will start hovering above the eggs, fanning them with her pectoral fins. The male resumes his sentry duty, guarding the perimeter once more. It is at this time that Salvini Cichlids are at their most aggressive, which is why, if you have a pair in a relatively small aquarium, they are best kept by themselves. However, if kept in a larger "mixed community" type setting, other fish usually cotton-on pretty quickly that it's best to stay well away from the protective parents. After 3 or 4 days, the eggs should hatch into wrigglers, and the parents will move them into one of their prepared pits. The wrigglers will initially feed on their yolk sacs, and should become free swimming after another 4 or 5 more days. Baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii), microworms, or egg layer "first foods" should be offered at this stage, followed by crushed flake after a week or so. The parents will continue to herd them from pit to pit until they are ready to make their own way. Well fed adults do not usually prey on their young. With such a large potential brood size, you should think about methods of re-homing the young once they have attained a satisfactory size. Salvini Cichlids mature at what seems like a very young age, and before you know it, you could have multiple pairs trying to form.